Dad’s Dog Doesn’t Live Here

I have always loved dogs. They are playful, fun, cute, and happy in that innocent way that only occurs through gracious naivety. They are companions for all. Due to natures pack mentality they are loyal, sometimes to the point of worthy trust. They have been dubbed “man’s best friend” for these traits. People have enjoyed the companionship of dogs for centuries. They are a good pet, fully domesticated to life alongside humans.

My father also has always loved dogs. When he was a boy he had a dog named Max, a big farm dog who loved to romp and play with my father. I recall my dad telling me stories of swimming with Max, running with him, and just plain being a boyhood friend with the kind beast. Throughout my childhood whenever I would see my father around a dog his mood would lighten and his eyes, expression, and voice would go soft. He has always had a soft spot for a good dog. But Dad’s dog doesn’t live in Bangkok.

I have said jokingly that the population of Bangkok is about 8-12 million not counting the dogs but the population is at least 20 million if you count all the dogs that live on the street. We call them soi dogs because “soi” is Thai for “street”. Any street in Bangkok has roughly (and with no exaggeration I might add) one soi dog for every 20 ft of road. They can be found lying under carts, walking across the road, scratching for bugs, and even scavenging through the garbage. They are not a pretty site. Most of them are bug-infested which is painfully obvious as you observe them constantly scratching and chewing at their fur. They have sores and unhealed injuries. It is very difficult to take in.

I come from a country where most dogs are a part of a home with loving owners and regular food. They have nice fur, wagging tails, and think only of eating, sleeping, and playing. Their masters are to be pandered after for attention and signs of acceptance. They are loyal, cute, and kind. Bangkok has these dogs too. They are the ones kept as pets by wealthy people, but this accounts for only a small fraction of the dogs. The grand majority of the dogs in Bangkok live on the street and fend for themselves by whatever means necessary, striking their turf, arranging into packs, and growling at other dogs who trespass.

For the most part they are harmless. They move about sulkily and are generally apathetic towards humans (except for those irritating ones that chase me when I run in the mornings – man I hate those dogs). But generally they only want to get by. They don’t wag their tails or romp and play, they just want to find some food and a place to lie down. They are the defeated. They are not looking for a conquest, just lunch.

When I first observed these animals my heart went out to them and I felt terrible for their plight. As time went on I realized that it is all part of a much larger picture. Not that the situation seemed better, it just seemed in perspective of a larger situation, one that didn’t mean any direct malice to the poor creatures, it is all merely a side-effect of how life works here. But soon I saw there were some small-scale answers to some of the problems that the soi dogs faced. They all tend to stake out their territory and mind each others boundaries, so they all get their piece of the leftover pie. Then the people in each of these territories seem to do their own part to allow the dogs access to certain prime trash. People actually seem to separate some of the better compostable food waste from the other trash in order to provide for the soi dogs. In fact, some people even seem to adopt the dogs to a point of bringing food for them purchased and transported by loving hands. On their way to work they might find an extra 3 Baht to buy a pad of rice and then deliver it to the mangy k-9. These dogs subserviently wait each day for this delivery and even might give their tail a single wag showing they are experiencing a little piece of light in their day.

Seeing acts of kindness to those that are the least is heartening. Perhaps Buddhists feel the need to take care of all towards a higher moral purpose. Maybe they are simply caching in on karma. Or they just might be decent people with big hearts and giving souls. For whatever the reason is I respect the wellbeing that I see. In a country where far too many people are in search of leading a good life, there is still some room in the peoples hearts for the soi dogs.

People in Thailand say “mai pen rai” or “no worries” quite a lot. I think part of the reason is that existence goes on like an eternal game of chess. All the players are on the board. Some will be sacrificed in the name of others but the team that wins is the one that uses all the players together for later strategies to come to term. The people here are not proclaiming to understand the game of life or how it ought to be played but they are at least trying to preserve the players and coexist together. Mai pen rai; why sacrifice a piece on the board, just coexist and the world will go on, no worries. The soi dogs may be merely pawns amidst the larger scheme of Bangkok but even the pawns serve to protect the King.

*Note: Why are there no pictures in this blog you may ask? Because the soi dogs are not pretty. I omitted many of the grisly details of their various disfigurements and visible ailments and to add pictures would only spoil any positive nature of this blog.

The Big Payday

It was payday and we were in need of some items from the store. Little did we know but payday is not just an event here in Thailand, in a way, it is the event. In Canada payday is commonly on a Friday. One Friday half of society gets their pay and on the other Friday the other half gets theirs. It seems like a nice egalitarian way of taking turns at wealth. Everyone gets their time in the “I have money” sun before reality once again puts them in their place until the next day of pay. Then as a person jumps up the scales of their career they may ascend to the monthly pay-scale called “salary”. Those that ascend to this level are assumed to be professionals and thus also capable of budgeting past the bleakness of the bi-weekly payday, and so, can survive on a thirty-day rotation.

But here in Thailand, it appears, everyone is paid at the end of the month (not just the salary-paid, responsible, elite). I don’t know this for a fact, but observation does agree. At the end of every month there is a day or two in which every store, local business, and the humming of the markets in the street itself are in full bloom. Everyone moves about like bees with flowers, floating from one thing to the next without a care in the world, spreading their influence and unknowingly causing the procreation of all that is around them. In this manner every local market grows at one time, gathering strength for the oncoming month until the next monthly payday for all who are Thai.

Cheryl and I ventured into the store in search of our daily items. The first stop was at the bank machine where we found incredible line-ups with no sense of personal space for all involved. Then the store itself was yet another sardine can of fun. It was crammed from shelf to shelf, aisle to aisle with bustling, grabbing, and voracious shoppers. You would have thought it was Canadian Tire the day before Y2K. People were moving in mob-like fashion, weaving through each other like fish caught in a net. Items were not removed from shelves they were claimed into possession and coveted by those left gaping.

I was in awe of the event. I felt that I was once again witness to one of the many things that make this the “amazing Thailand” that tourism claims it to be. It was truly awesome and I was amazed. Why would the economy function purely on a monthly basis? Does that not slow the public consumption for two weeks at a time, or is it a strategy at encouraging mass consumption during the initial two weeks of each month? In either event, I once again felt I was sitting on the meridian and observing the crazy drivers at work. I think I will take care of my future shopping prior to the end of the month; I might be another driver on the highway of life, but I just don’t like driving that crazy.

Merry Christmas to Everyone

It's that magical time again of giving, and receiving, and hugging, and eating, and presents under the tree...etc., etc.

But we are in Thailand! Yes, Christmas does happen in Thailand, however, there is no snow or snowmen, no carols or crappy Christmas pageants, and no two-thousand-year-old miracles. The Christmas star is blotted out by the crimson glow of the Bangkok skyline as it reflects across the smog hovering over the 8 million Buddhists snug in their air-controlled bedrooms.

There are Christians in Bangkok. Apparently Thailand is ten percent Christian, although they are a rather invisible ten percent it appers. Although I did see some decorations up downtown last night, but perhaps that was more for the purpose of attracting shoppers. Perhaps some things are still like home.

But where is the snowfall and all the other things taken for granted? I want to hear people say "Merry Christmas" to perfect strangers and actually mean it. Christmas in Canada always seems to bring out just a smidgen of goodness in people. They really hope those around them will have a merry Christmas. Maybe Jesus isn't as on the scene as some of us would like and perhaps we have stationed the holiday closer to a pagan ritual than the actual date of his birth and maybe marketing is a tighter issue than the induction of a human bridge to the almighty, but the spirit still lives on. People still feel that urgent tug in their heart. They give the paperboy a few extra dollars, they bake cookies for the neighbourhood kids that they otherwise don't find so cute, they snuggle close to the fire and think Norman Rockwell wishes to all their loved ones.

Christmas is an ideal that we aspire to. It is an idea of wellbeing and good will, of giving one's self to others and getting something in return even though it was not necessary that it be so. I personally am far more excited to give the gifts than recieve (but, hey, who's complaining about receiving?). I too, wish my family well and miss them so dearly in my heart during this time of thanks.

Even those who claim cinicism for Christmas do so usually out of spite. Scrooge was pissy because noone liked him. The Grinch was also angry because he had no friends. But each of them had the Tiny Tim, or little reindeer dog that opened the door for them to walk through, but it was their hearts that provided the final impetus for giving in to the customs of the season. But the CBC will not be airing the Grinch who stole Christmas in Bangkok this year. And most of my family will not be around the table arguing over the last piece of pumpkin pie (like there's ever a need to, Grandma always made three or more pies). I will miss the Christmas table, the tree, the snow, and the relatives that I share my blood, my heart, and my life with. They are all special to me and so is Christmas(Wow, is this ever getting sappy).

Why am I blogging about this? Because I miss my family and Jesus' birthday makes my smile when I think of them. Merry Ho Ho everybody!

I'm Not Selling Anything (unless you're buying that is)

Markets are a means of promoting small commerce. People come up with small items others would like to purchase and through doing so a dollar is turned, a dollar is earned. It is idealistic and supports an ongoing system of monetary movement. This creates a flow of money from which all involved may benefit.

Thailand has been said to be the “Entrepreneurial Kingdom” because not only is it one of the last remaining large-scale somewhat legitimate kingdoms left on planet Earth, it is also the host country of markets on all levels. In North America a market is usually some small-scale event organized to temporarily promote an event or a local cabin industry. The events are festive and the profits are nice to the people that make them, but usually, they are not a pure means of subsistence. In Thailand markets are just that; a means of subsistent living. And without that means of subsistence, the society of Thailand might fall.

As is popular throughout history a society will exist until there ceases to be a middle class. Once this class disappears either the economy falls for the rich or the working class rises against the upper crust. In either event it can be expected that a government will change hands, business will evolve, and somehow people will find themselves either sinking or swimming in the aftermath. This is life on planet Earth. And p.s….the Thai government fell last year. So it goes.

There is no middle-class in Thailand. I’m not sure what happened to it. Maybe it never existed in the first place. After all, history in Asia has shown many instances of lords and peasants with little place for the middle-man. Although, I have heard that there was a massive fall in the economy during the late 90’s, which might account for some of the vast difference between the classes. It appears that in Thailand you are either very poor or exceedingly rich. You drive a cranky old motorcycle, or a shiny new Mercedes complete with adjustable seats and a DVD for the kids. You eat rice with chicken parts or you get fat at Pizza Hut. There is no in-between. Either you’re a starbelly sneetch one with no stars on thars (Dr. Suess, Sneetches on Beeches).

When looking from our balcony one can see a mansion complete with walled enclosure to keep the rest of the world out, and directly next door to it, in fact leaning against the very wall itself, is a shanty-town of the forgotten class. There is no in-between. The space between the shanty and the wall is roughly the same size as the middle-class in Thailand; small to none and being pressed between the upper and lower pressures.

Markets are the glue that hold the economy together here in Thailand. They are the path through which we all may walk. They open up commerce between those with enough to provide and those who wish to possess. They are a means of making a dollar and then turning it over for necessities, and this dollar might even have the power to move up or down in the chain of economic command. To hasten this, the government does not impose much for taxes and indirectly allows for a lot of economic loopholes through which people can make informal money independent of a crushing larger infrastructure. It works out well in the end doesn’t it? The poor can bind together to create markets that may then provide for the rich. As well, the rich then purchase from the poor and help to support the tradition and strength of the working class. It becomes a form of subsistence for the society itself. Moa Zedong showed that Southeast Asia can survive under the formation of both a formal and informal market economy. It is by this that classes can exchange both independently and interdependently.

It makes me think of the story my father once told me about a thousand dollar bill that entrusted to an individual who then proceeds to spend it. The bill gets exchanged around a local market from one hand to the next until it lands with the original holder. Upon return of the bill this person finds out the thousand dollar bill is a fake, and yet, who lost money? Everyone was still able to purchase with the money so long as everyone agreed upon its worth. In this manner all money gets passed and in its path come the riches, just merely perceived.

Not every dollar (or baht as the case may be) gets recorded and therein lies the answer. Some patriotics with North America on the brain will surely say, “But what about the social systems provided by the government? Who pays for those if these so called ‘informal markets’ aren’t recording their profits and paying proper taxes?” Well to such a person I remind that in Thailand there aren’t social systems such as in North America. Here in Thailand people are generally expected to look after themselves and their own without benefit of free education, healthcare, and/or welfare. By giving the working class a break on the market, the government allows a laissez-faire approach of allowing the economy to balance itself through good old-fashioned determinism.

I am not saying any one system is better than the other but from the position I’m in there is a lot to think about. Cultural perspective is a fascinating view. At times I feel I am sitting on a meridian during rush-hour traffic: I can’t figure out which direction is the better one for cars to travel in but I am certain that everyone in the vehicles must be mad.

We are Full of Sickness (but a little delirium is nice)

Homesickness is indeed an illness. I don’t care what anyone says, it is an illness. It takes the energy out of your stride. It makes one listless and apathetic. It makes getting out of bed difficult. It makes a person uncomfortable and wanting of something to comfort them that is ultimately out of their reach. I am certain that if I were to look in a mirror now I would surely be pale and I’m sure my colour will return once I am in Canada

Cheryl and I have been longing for the shores of Canada. We miss our family, our friends, and our culture. It has become a mix of things really. Part of it is a longing for the country of our origin and part of it is loathing for certain qualities (or lack of) in our surroundings. Every now and then the smell smog, soi dogs, the smell of dirty oil cooking on a cart and filling a street full of acrid smoke, and of course the open sewers of Bangkok make me wish I were amidst the clean air of Canada. When I run in the morning I am chased by dogs and smell the garbage that was tossed into the street over one week prior and I wish for the sanitation and salutations of my fellow Canadians.

However, I am certain that once we are home the vice versa effect will come into full swing and we will say things like “I wish we could still get a delicious lunch around the corner for under a dollar” or “Do you think I can convince the 7-11 to make me a fruit smoothie for 30 cents?”. These are things in abundance here in Thailand that will never be in Canada. We will miss the inexpensive luxuries, and the exotic sites and foods. We will especially miss the beaches of southern Thailand and the traveling to the island of Koh Chang on the weekends. We will even miss the general hubbub of the bustling overcrowded city and the delightful cultural misunderstandings that are the basis for so many experiences. We will miss Thailand.

As well, although we will be so happy to be home amidst the illusion of common sense and decency and the aloof kindness and honesty that us Canadians are so well known for, we will then flip the proverbial coin and complain of things such as the cold. The winter will descend upon us with a ferocity that we will have forgotten over our time overseas for we are now climatized to the brazen temperate climate of the tropics. We no longer sweat in plus thirty-five and we put on a sweater when the temperature dares to drop below twenty-eight. We are now spoiled tropic-dwellers in need of some freezer-burn to harden into hearty Canadians once again.

Wait a minute. I think typing this entry has helped me to appreciate something. All you suckers are way over on the wrong side of the rock right now. You are all wearing long underwear, coats, toques, mittens, and double socks. You are cold frozen with your cars plugged in and your gas bills rising. We, on the other hand, have plans to fly to Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, and multiple trips to a tropical beach. Thank you my readers in Canada. Due to relative difference you have comforted me. I am no longer homesick, I am self-righteous in my indulgences. Perhaps I am forgetting the soft-spoken manner of being a Canadian. I will just have to soak up the sun until the hard life of Canada reminds me of my humble roots once again. In the meantime, I will consider peity to be simply the act of eating dessert.

*Post writing this blog Cheryl and I spent this previous weekend, once again, on the beautiful island of Koh Chang which has the place we are calling our favourite on Earth. The pictures included are from this previous weekend (sunset c/o of Cheryl's photo finger). We are still homesick, but are now more thankful for the tropics than sick about home. But, Christmas is around the corner and distance does make a heart grow fungus.

British Fair on the River Bangkok

Cheryl and I attended a British festival this weekend. The festival is an annual fundraiser for the needy taking place at a private school in the heart of Bangkok. The whole event was wonderful. There was a market, games, kiddy rides, book sales, magicians, terrible cover bands, international foods, international beer, and way too many limeys in one place at one time. The festival was festive and the festivities were fun.

We took a cab down to the river and then caught the free boat along the canals which took us straight to a dock beside the festival and then the festivities began. We shopped, played games, ate fish & chips and listened to British chatter amidst cider drinking. The children enjoyed the scary clowns and free candy samples whilst the parents enjoyed overpriced shopping and underpriced food, drink, and entertainment.

We quickly noticed that the school hosting the event was very upscale when compared to our current employer. We also noticed that all the upscale schools in Bangkok were present there hoping to coax future students to attend. But what’s a festival without the corporate sponsors anyhow.

We freely enjoyed and spent money as most of the proceeds were destined for philanthropomorphic causes. The entire event was fun complete with balloons and smiling faces. It sort of brought me back home as it was like so many festivals I have attended in Canada. I guess fun is a universal thing whether your Thai, British, or even British in Thailand.

Long Live the King

Cheryl and I were just witness to one of the greatest events that people can have; of utter unity and togetherness in the face of something larger than ourselves.

Today is the King of Thailand’s 80th birthday. Everyone, and I mean everyone in Thailand celebrated the event. Cheryl and I were on our way home from dinner when we noticed the street filling with our neighbors around a shrine for the King with a tv set on the side. On the set was the event happening in downtown Bangkok. The event was at least a million people bordering on the multi-million and everyone was there to honour and respect the one and only King of Thailand.

Within a minute of our arrival we were warmly welcomed with the respect of locals. They were happy to share their glory of the holiday with us. There were candles offered to us, “Love King” exchanges, photographs taken, and all round brotherly love and togetherness as people gathered and sang in honour of the symbol of wellbeing and goodness that is the King of Thailand.

The event was so heartwarming. It made me think of the cherished event of a religious awakening when goodness abounds within the heart to the point of instant community and good wishes. The people of Thailand have come together on this day to celebrate a unity that can only happen behind the rallying of a common image and grace that is a King. As a major of history at the University of Winnipeg I have heard of and studied kings but only now do I begin to understand the grace and unity that is a king. The people of Thailand have taught me something this day and for that I thank them. God bless the King of Thailand. Long live the King.

*Read about the event in the Bangkok Post
http://www.readbangkokpost.com/articles/hmbday.php